El Caminero (250€, inc. dinner)
We are up at 6:00 AM, have breakfast at 6:30, and already almost everyone has left. We leave about 7:15 and are joined by Karl and family. It is dark and very cold again. The walking is very flat here, through cornfields. We carry on until 10:15 and stop in a small dumpy town for C&CC and potato chips. I have been wearing tights under my shorts with a vest and gloves for the past two days and need to perform a big change out of this when the day turns hot, around 11:00. It’s always a challenge to find a changing spot, but I manage. Crossing a very long bridge, we arrive in Hospital de Orbigo at 12:15 PM and find our B&B. Alas, it does not open until 1:00 and does not serve lunch. So, back to town where nothing is open for lunch until 1:00. We stop at a bar and have glasses of Rose and Coca Cola, with tapas. Finally, we sit down in a restaurant on the Rio Orbigo. We share ensalata mista, spaghetti carbonara, and flan, all surprisingly good. We wander back to our B&B and check in at 2:45. The place is charming. The shower is amazing with shooters all about. We have a great nap in the big bed and are up at 5:30 for small town exploration. Dinner at El Caminero features local specialties: dried beef, pumpkin soup, tuna croquettes with ratatouille, and a chocolate pudding. The meal is expensive and not very good, though the wine is excellent.