Hotel San Fernando (51€)
Out by sunrise with many other pilgrims. A couple of kilometers along the trail, we’re joined by a Spanish fellow wishing to practice his English by walking and talking with us. We’re glad to help. He leaves us a pamphlet he’s written on the history of the Camino and heads back to walk with other pilgrims. We enjoy coffees and a goodie in a small town and then head on to Nejara, arriving at 12:00 PM. Our hotel is easy to find, on the Rio Najerilla, with a very nice room, and a great bathtub. So apparently Spain is good on bathtubs, not so good on food. We have lunch at 1:45… Nick has a veggie platter (rellenos) and helado; I have an ensalada mista, chicken with fries, and rice pudding, all good. Good B+N. Up at 5:00 to explore the old town. It is surrounded by Utah-like red cliffs. We visit a great old church where a fellow by the name of Garcia followed two falcons into a cave, and had a vision of the Virgin. We join a short tour of the church and are intrigued by the elaborately carved choir, with faces or creatures under each seat. We pass another church, filled for a funeral, and then head back toward our hotel. We have cocktails outside by the river… apparently an early-evening Spanish custom. After wandering around we return to our room and eat a leftover sandwich and enjoy a bottle of wine, courtesy of the hotel.