Los Arcos to Vianna – 18.2K

This entry is part 6 of 29 in the series Part 3: Puente la Reina to Astorga

Alburgue Andres Muñoz (6€!)

Up at 6:30 AM, breakfast of pan tostada and café con leche; then out into a beautiful sunrise.  It is level out of town and quite chilly.  Lots of pilgrims.  We are slow but who cares!  The paths and roads wind through grapevines and olive trees with vistas all about. The road soon becomes difficult with UP, DOWN, UP, DOWN, on and on.  We arrive in Vianna and look for our alburgue.  Unfortunately, there was some confusion as to our reservation at the town’s semi-fancy hotel, and they are now full (even though we paid up in advance).  So, we have bunk beds and lockers in a windowless room.  Nick is #47; I am #50.  There is one toilet and two showers for fifty-four people.  We leave the alburgue to check out the town, a medieval city of about 3500 people.  There are more All-Gold churches and a ruined shell of one across from our alburgue, which is actually quite lovely, with faded frescos and a tranquil ambience.  We have lunch at 2:00 PM in the restaurant in the semi-fancy Palacio Hotel.  Quite good… Bonnie:  ensalata mista, lomo with potatoes, flan / Nick: good pasta, baked chicken, and helado.  Quite full, we wander back for a nap.  The alburgue is not a great place to hang out so out into town we go.  We can’t bear to think of dinner so we prowl a grocery store and settle on dry soup, bread, cheese, tomatoes and a bottle of wine, together costing all of .89€, about a dollar. Back to the alburgue’s cocina to prepare our elegant dinner, but sadly there is no electricity, with many others hoping to prepare their meals.  It is fun to cook with other pilgrims in the dark.  I am taken by the elaborate meal being prepared by a French couple and quite jealous.  Lights flicker on and off and finally we eat our soup, bread and cheese and take the remainder of our wine to drink in the ruin.  Down the street, we duck into a church where a choir is rehearsing. Lovely!  On the way back, there’s music wafting from an upstairs apartment; a lesson, we think. We climb into our bunks and Buenas Noches!

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