Le Pont Napoleon (323€ for two nights)
Walk walk walk, up & down, up & down, over and over. This is beautiful country with orchards and vast fields with new crops. No cows here, nor any chickens, but we do greet and pass six sheep. We follow a couple we have seen for some days on the trail and realize that the man is holding onto his wife’s shoulder because he is blind. They both have beatific expressions. I am brought to tears by the poignancy of this couple. We arrive in Moissac at 12:45 PM. It is the ever-shocking entry into a bustling city fresh out of the country… noisy, busy, dingy. We finally find the city square and settle on a lunch spot next to the abbey. Quite good… for me a vegetarian salad; for Nick lamb chops and GREAT ICE CREAM … the BEST he has ever had, produced by a certified “Master Glacier.” We are bowled over by how many people stop to greet us and ask us where we are from and how far we are going. Apparently we have stirred a great deal of curiosity along the route. After lunch we find the Tourist Office for info on major attractions and then find our hotel. We have a really dumb room facing a back street (although the hotel is on the river). All in all, our setup is dark and ugly. We take an evening walk looking for a bird sanctuary but find a private campground instead. We are on the beautiful Tarn River and do enjoy cocktails overlooking the river on the hotel’s terrace. Dinner is OK… I have foie gras and then chicken stuffed with duck liver (actually, I take this over from Nick who has misunderstood his choice) and an apple tart. Nick ends up with jambon salad, then my delicious duck and sponge cake in Armagnac. Finally Bon nuit.