Lanne-Soubiran to Aire sur l’Adour – 18.3K

This entry is part 12 of 33 in the series Part 2: Moissac to Puente la Reina

Le Relais des Landes (129€ for two nights)

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Up at 6:00 AM and my back seems better yet.  Walk, walk, walk through cornfields, forests, and fields of over-the-hill, droopy sunflowers.  No real towns on our way today. We have a perfect Ultreia (the title of a catchy pilgrim song) stop in a dell where someone has left apples for pelerins.  We arrive at our hotel at 1:45 PM after no luck in finding a lunch spot in the town we’ve just passed through.  There are two super-stores in the area and no local businesses.  We go further into the town for lunch and have cheese salad, chicken with fries, and a lemon tart.  Back to our hotel now… where the hostess decides to take me on a walk back to town to show me her favorite restaurant.  Wow!  Just what I wanted… more walking!  She is darling… no English but LOTS of demonstration.  Finally we return to the hotel and to clueless, waiting Nick.  Upstairs to our room for a nap and a call home.  We have dinner at the special restaurant – that I can barely find, but finally do.  The fare is excellent. We start with Champagne, then wine, potage, appetizers, beef and veal roasts, green beans, potatoes, ice cream and crème caramel… a  bargain at 39€ (inc. wine).  I have bad back night, with two baths.  Too much walking, I think.  Did I mention?… we went swimming this afternoon.  (There have been pools, but none remotely warm enough.)

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