Hotel La Chartreuse (333€ for two nights)
Still overcast. Much camaraderie amongst us pilgrims as we head out for our day. The country is beautiful with the sun trying so hard to make an appearance. Finally there’s burst of glorious sunshine and we are walking through fields of red poppies. The way is up and down and then level and suddenly descends steeply into the large town of Cahors. The shock of it! Suddenly cars and traffic everywhere. We cross a bridge and a city welcomer asks where we pelerins are from. We finally find our hotel (back across the bridge where we came in). It is lovely, on the river with a small balcony. A bad reception in the lobby by a crabby employee is unfortunate, but, Oh well! We leave our stuff and head over the bridge and back into town looking for the Tourist Center; they are most helpful. We have an elegant lunch at le marche and then browse a bookstore. I buy a trashy Gone with the Wind sequel about Rhett Butler and am thrilled.
We do a tour around the town, and admire a spectacular, famed bridge. ‘Twas said that the architect enlisted the aid of the Devil, and in exchange the Devil would snatch his soul when the bridge was completed. Cleverly (he thought), the architect left the bridge a single stone short of completion, and if you look to the top of one of the towers, there he is: Old Scratch finishing off the job (and presumably the architect). We walk along the river back to our hotel. Our room has a sign forbidding clothes-washing, so we plan to do all our laundry somewhere in town the next morning. Dinner is quite good. Bonnie: foi-gras, brochette of scallops with risotto, cheese and strawberries. Nick: sweetbreads (he didn’t know), duck, cheese and pears with chocolate.