Rustico Insula* (100€ for two nights)
A surprise!… a decent breakfast, good croissants. Out at 8:45 AM, and up the hill out of town. The way is poorly marked and we stray a couple of times. Flowers blooming, and ocean views. We realize that we’ve gotten really good at steep! We crest a major hill at the hamlet of St. Roche and descend to the water, skirting along back roads. We stop at the seaside resort of Estorde for C&CC. It is Sunday morning and they’re prepared for a big crowd later in the day. We follow the coastline and then another rise that takes us down along a beautiful beach sweeping away to the town of Finisterra, and beyond, a lighthouse at the end of the world. Beautiful! It is hot and very humid. Some families have just arrived at the beach and are playing in the water. We wish we had brought our suits… but who would have known? A beach walkway takes us on into bustling Finisterre. Again the shock of traffic whooshing through very narrow streets… Yikes! We look for the bus station, ask around and finally find that it is only a stop, not a station, but with a schedule on the wall. We confirm times back to Santiago. Now to find our hotel. Though our map is vague about this, we spy some signs advertising the Rustico Insula, 2 kilometers away. We stagger up a steep hill to our hotel near the top. No food is available until dinner at 8… Rats!!! Too far back down to town for lunch, so we settle on a bottle of white wine. Enjoying this, we chat with a young woman who has hiked “out her front door” from Belgium, 84 days ago! WOW!!! She is twenty-three, speaks perfect English, and has our admiration for what’s she’s done! B+N in a beautiful room with a stunning view, and finally head down to dinner at 8. We have chosen a simple meal: chorizo, eggs (from house chickens) and potatoes, flan. For a change, excellent!! A group that has turned up everywhere for the last few days is also staying here, its smug leader reminiscent of Michael Corleone. To bed at 9, then a long night!!! Lots of coughing, little sleeping. Oh well! Goes with the adventure.