Las Doñas del Portazgo (85€)
Very rainy all day, no letup. On through Cacabelos we go, and out into the countryside, very green with many vineyards… a major wine region. Lots of big ups and big downs, lots of mud, and lots of beautiful views. Two tiny towns along the way, with no place for a snack stop. We arrive in Villafranca at 12:15 PM and find our hotel. The room is beautiful, all off-whites. I love it but worry about how wet and grubby we are. We clean up a bit and venture out for lunch. The streets are very narrow and the cars drive very fast. I fear for Nick, oblivious of the danger. Off the principal plaza, we chose a café recommended in our guidebook. It appears popular with the town’s construction crowd, but is less of a hit for us… seafood paella, slimy soup of some fatty pig parts and a few garbanzos, and flan and rice pudding for dessert. We do a bit of exploring and find a place for dinner, across a bridge on the way out of town. Back to our room to catch up on wi-fi and read. Out at 7:20 for a look at the town’s big church… We enter without noticing the No Entrar During Mass sign… Oh well, those dumb pilgrims, can’t take them anywhere. Cross the bridge to our newly discovered restaurant and a lovely meal… Bonnie: lentil soup and pasta Bolognese / Nick: Russian salad, pimientos stuffed with meat, and ice cream. We sit next to two fellows from Australia, and they give us the rest of their wine, and present Nick with a book about living a mystical life. (He’ll be disinclined, I suspect).