Carion de los Condes to Calzadilla de los Cuerzo – 17.1K

This entry is part 20 of 29 in the series Part 3: Puente la Reina to Astorga

Albergue Camino Real (40€)

We are up at 6:00 AM.  Have breakfast at our hotel, and on the road by 7:45.  The morning is VERY COLD!!!  It must be in the 30s (F).  We head out of town on a flat Roman Road, built in the year 9 AD, and still in sufficient shape to negotiate with a passenger car.  It soon seems as if we are walking forever.  Nick’s leg hurts all the time, and now his neck is bothersome.  There are no reported stops on this stretch.  We stop to rub Nick’s leg and neck every ten minutes or so.  Everyone whizzes by.  It is a LONG, LONG DAY!  It turns hot and the flies are out in profusion, which prompts Nick to quote the 1137 AD Pilgrim’s Guide he’s read.  ”This is a desolate region deprived of all good; villages are rare here.  If perchance you cross it in summertime, guard your face diligently from the enormous flies that greatly abound.”  We see our friends Peter and Hermann and stop with them at a makeshift cafe for coffees and a banana.  We talk travel… they have been so many places. They zip off and we slog on and on and on.  Is there no end to this?  It is positively the longest 17 kilometers we have experienced. Finally, we walk over a rise and, ahead, sight a tiny village.  Our hostel there is blessedly very nice.  We lunch at 2:30 PM.  Bonnie:  bean soup, cannelloni, and flan / Nick:  Russian potato salad, sautéed chicken, helado.  Upstairs for B+N and a pummeling of Nick’s neck and hinky leg. We are at an impasse re walking on.  We consider switching his backpack for my fanny pack. We go down to dinner at 7:45.  It is too much. We need to learn that one big meal a day will suffice.  Well, anyway…  Bonnie: pasta, pork ribs. and watermelon / Nick: salmon and cheese cake.


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