Burgos to Hornillos del Camino, with a pick up by Mili – 20.3 K

This entry is part 16 of 29 in the series Part 3: Puente la Reina to Astorga

El Molina, 7K away (78€, dp)*

We depart our hotel at 7:00 AM, and it is still dark.  We stop for café and croissants and then begin the long trek out of Burgos through busy streets and parks with, thankfully, the way well marked.  Many pilgrims today.  We watched them starting out from our hotel window at 6:00 this morning.  The road is flat, and the city suddenly behind us.  We spy a prison complex in the distance.  We walk around fields and beside freeways.  At 8 kilometers we arrive in a small town for our morning C&CC and a potato tortilla snack at a busy bus and truck stop.  Then up to another small town and up some more until we are out of towns, continuing on through dusty, hot, dry fields.  The day turns hot, the walking is long, and we are plagued by flies with a particular interest in Nick.  Finally I act as his personal slave, fanning off the pesky flies with my poles.  We stop at a shaded fountain for a water break and then head steeply up and again steeply down toward Hornillos del Camino, a tiny town.  We have lunch in the only bar… Bonnie:  lentil soup and grilled lamb with flan for dessert / Nick: ensalada mista, lamb meatballs, and chocolate pudding. After lunch we wander over to the town church and call for Mili (our hostess for tonight) to pick us up. While we are waiting we meet a Canadian, Bruce, who actually has stayed in Borrego Springs.  Mili arrives, and off we go in her car to our new home, El Molino. Mili is lovely and we do our best to communicate, each challenged by the other’s language.  I do learn from her that she has daughter who spends quite a bit of time in Los Angeles.  We eventually find out she is married to Martin Sheen’s grandson and that they met while he was scouting the movie, The Way.  And subsequently, several scenes were shot here at El Molino.  The place is lovely and we chat with two men from Austria who have been staying at many of the same places as us.  They speak English and now we are best friends with Peter and Hermann.  The dinner is farm-garden excellent… grilled green peppers with salt, potato tortilla with ham and cheese, onion torte, pastillo rellenos, fresh sliced tomatoes, potage, black pudding, flan, home-distilled liquors.

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