Atapuerca to Burgos – 19.4K

This entry is part 14 of 29 in the series Part 3: Puente la Reina to Astorga

Meson del Cid  (200€ for two nights)**

Our host has left coffee and toast for our breakfast and we are on our way at 7:30 AM. The morning is cold and drizzly.  We walk out of town and up a steep rocky grade with many other pilgrims.  At the top of the grade it is freezing, wet and windy… but there is a large labyrinth.  Nick and I both walk it.  We then head down towards Burgos, way off in the distance.  Since we began walking in France, I have worried about Burgos.  Many guidebooks and pilgrims recommend taking the bus here to avoid the long haul in and out of the city… the great traffic industrialness of it all.  Oh well, here we go!  Our guidebook (John Brierley’s Camino de Santiago) offers a choice of routes.  We settle on the writer’s favorite, a swing around the major roads and into the city on back streets.  The route proves perfect for me.  No big highway and giant trucks… rather open fields with easy walking.  We stop at 11:00 for CC&C and a potato omelet, then arrive at a Pilgrim’s Welcome Station at 12:30 PM and are greeted kindly.  We follow yellow arrows (frequently used to mark the Camino) through the street of Burgos.  It is a big city but quite nice.  The street are wide and open.  A famous gate leads us into the Old City.  We settle on “Mafia” for lunch and enjoy gazpacho and pizza.  Then on to our hotel, located right across from the cathedral.  The view from our room is quite wonderful.  So, a nap and then a visit to the cathedral.  But we find a Mass underway, so we walk around the city trying to figure out what and where to dine.  Everyone is very busy drinking in all the bars and outdoor cafes but there appears to be no eating.  We still don’t get the Spanish evening rituals and dinner times.  Finally we choose a glass-enclosed outdoor restaurant, just opened (it is 8:30) and enjoy a nice dinner.  Bonnie:  pasta with mushrooms / Nick: consommé and pasta with meat sauce.  Good Tempranillo wine.  Back to our hotel and in bed by 10:00.  The cathedral is floodlit; we sleep with the shades open.

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