Le Relais des Landes
We enjoy a petit dejeuner after which our host calls six reservations ahead for us. Sure hope I can continue. We tour the town and visit two beautiful churches… #1 has just been restored and #2 is both Romanesque and Gothic (a frequent combination) with a sepulcher in the basement; it was the first church here, 1300s AD. There’s a ghastly mosaic of St. Quintana, holding her severed head, once an object of veneration for pilgrims (specifically) bitten by mad dogs. And here’s an interesting take on the Camino: For olden time pilgrims, it was not just getting to Spain’s Santiago de Compostela, it was a chance for doctoring along the way, with prayed-to Saints good for whatever ailed you. St. Peter for fevers and sore feet. Fall off a horse? Drunk? Pray to St. Nicholas. Twitching and fits? St. Bartholomew was the go-to guy. And there were a host of beheaded saints good for blindness, numbness, paralysis, and the like. Back to the present, we meet an acquaintance, Dorothy, who we have oft seen on the trail. Her walking friend apparently had quite enough and went home, and now she too is leaving. From Belgium, she simply does not like France. Our meal is at the same little corner restaurant we dined at for lunch yesterday and it is good for me… chicken and mushroom pasta, but less so for Nick, who has a bum salad. Hotel for nap, then back to the same place for dinner, not so good, eggs and charcuterie. Home to read (Sherlock H) and sleep.